Surron Ultra Bee Traxxion S Titanium Fork Install Guide
Tools Needed:
- Allen key set
- Torque wrench
- Headset bearing grease
- Fresh headset bearings
- Socket set for axle nut
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
The Traxxion S titanium fork from Pure Racing is a serious front-end upgrade for the Surron Ultra Bee. You get fully CNC-machined dropouts (no cast aluminum), titanium aluminum nitride (TAN) coated stanchions, a CNC triple crown with clean machining, an aluminum steer tube, and high quality hardware. The kit also includes bar mounts, so you're replacing the triple clamp, fork legs, and bar clamps in one shot.
This install is for an Ultra Bee owner comfortable pulling the front wheel, swapping a fork and triple clamp, and repacking headset bearings. If you've done a fork swap before, nothing here will surprise you. If you haven't, the only tricky part is seating the lower headset bearing on the triple clamp stem.
What you get out of it: a stiffer, better-damped front end with premium coatings that outclass the stock fork, plus a cleaner cockpit thanks to the integrated bar mounts. The fork guards and headlight bracket carry over from your existing setup. Plan to finish-torque everything to spec after the fork is hung, the bars are clocked, and the wheel is back in. Rear shock upgrade not included, that's still on the wish list.
Install Steps:
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01
Pack and install fresh headset bearings
Start with a fresh set of headset bearings packed with grease. Getting the lower bearing seated on the bottom of the triple clamp is the hardest part of the whole job, so take your time here.
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02
Send the triple clamp up through the head tube
Feed the new CNC triple clamp stem up through the head tube of the frame. Drop the top seal on, then thread the lock nut down to hold it in place. You'll set final preload later.
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03
Install the top triple clamp
Set the top triple clamp over the steer tube, drop in the small spacer, and start the top bolt. Leave it snug but not torqued, you'll come back to it.
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04
Slide in the brake side fork leg
Take the brake side stanchion/fork leg and slide it up through the lower and upper triple clamps. Snug the pinch bolts. Don't torque to spec yet.
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05
Slide in the non-brake side fork leg
Repeat on the non-brake side. Make sure both fork legs are properly aligned with the top of the triple clamp so they sit at equal height.
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06
Install the bar clamps on the triple clamp
The handlebar clamp bases are not symmetrical. Orient them with the longer side facing forward on both sides. Snug them down.
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07
Set the handlebars and top bar clamps
Drop the bars into the lower clamps, set the top halves of the bar clamps on, and start the bolts loose. Clock the bars where you want them, then snug the clamps. Torque to spec later following the correct tightening pattern.
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08
Reinstall the EVMX screen
Mount the EVMX display back onto the new triple clamp setup.
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09
Reinstall the headlight bracket
Bolt the headlight bracket back onto the new triple clamp.
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10
Install the fork guards
Mount your fork guards (carbon fiber if you have them, otherwise plastic). Snug them on both sides, final torque comes later.
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11
Reinstall the front wheel and axle
Slide the front wheel up into the dropouts and feed the axle through. Thread on the axle nut and tighten it down. Snug the pinch bolts on the dropouts.
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12
Final torque everything to spec
Go back through the build and torque to spec: headset preload and lock nut, top triple clamp bolt, upper and lower fork pinch bolts, bar clamp bolts (correct pattern), fork guard hardware, axle nut, and axle pinch bolts.
Common Mistakes:
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Final-torquing fork pinch bolts before the legs are aligned
Leave everything snug during assembly. Only torque the pinch bolts to spec after both fork legs are aligned with the top of the triple clamp and the wheel is back in.
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Installing the bar clamp bases backwards
The clamp bases are asymmetrical. Longer side faces forward on both the left and right mounts.
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Skipping fresh headset bearings or not packing them with grease
Install fresh, pre-packed bearings. The lower bearing on the triple clamp stem is the hardest part of the install, so do it right the first time.
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Forgetting to torque the axle nut and dropout pinch bolts
After the wheel goes back in, torque the axle nut fully and then torque the dropout pinch bolts to spec. Don't leave them 'snug'.
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Cranking down bar clamp bolts in a random order
Follow the correct tightening pattern for the bar clamps so the gap stays even top and bottom, then torque to spec.
FAQs
What makes the Traxxion S fork better than the stock Ultra Bee fork?
Fully CNC-machined dropouts instead of cast aluminum, titanium aluminum nitride (TAN) coated stanchions (which Pure Racing positions as better than Kashima, including what you'd find on Fox 40s), a CNC triple crown with clean machining, an aluminum steer tube, and high quality hardware. Bar mounts are included with the triple clamp.
Does the fork come with a triple clamp and bar mounts?
Yes. The kit includes the triple crown/triple clamp and the bar mounts, so you're doing a full front-end swap, not just a leg swap.
Do I need new headset bearings for this install?
Plan on it. A fresh, properly packed set of headset bearings makes the install cleaner and gets the most out of the new triple clamp. Seating the lower bearing on the stem is the hardest part of the job.
Which way do the bar clamps face?
The handlebar clamp bases are not symmetrical. Install them with the longer side facing forward on both sides.
Do my stock fork guards and headlight bracket still fit?
Yes. The stock plastic fork guards and the headlight bracket bolt back onto the new triple clamp setup.
Does this also upgrade the rear shock?
No. This is a front fork only. The rear shock is unchanged and is still a candidate for a future upgrade.