Eride Pro SS YZ Foot Brake Master Cylinder Install
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
This guide walks you through installing the FactoryZ YZ master cylinder foot brake conversion on your Eride Pro SS. The kit includes the 3D printed adapter, the YZ master cylinder, a foot brake bracket, and the hardware kit with the correct length bolts and spacer washers. It's aimed at riders swapping out the stock foot brake setup for a stronger YZ-style master cylinder, and it's straightforward as long as you assemble the parts in the right order and get the piston alignment right.
The install itself is mechanical only. There's no wiring, and bleeding the brake is not covered here. What matters most is two things: assembling the master cylinder to the bracket with the piston perfectly in line so you don't blow the master on the first pump, and using the longer M8 mount bolts with two washers behind them so the master cylinder clears the swing arm.
The same assembly process applies if you're running this YZ conversion kit on a Talaria or an Ultra Bee, not just the Eride Pro. If you're comfortable with basic hand tools and can take your time on the alignment step, you can knock this out in a single sitting and end up with a much better foot brake feel than the stock unit.
Tools Needed:
- FactoryZ foot brake kit hardware: 3D printed adapter, 2x M8 x 30 bolts, 4x M8 washers, flat head M8 bolt, long M6 bolt, 20mm M6 bolt, actuator pin, cotter pin
- Metric Allen key set (every bolt in this kit is Allen drive, including the two M8 x 30 that mount the bracket to the bike)
- Pliers (for bending the cotter pin)
Install Steps:
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01
Lay out and sort the hardware
Pull everything out of the hardware kit and sort it before you start turning bolts. You'll have the 3D printed adapter, a flat head M8 bolt for the master cylinder to bracket joint, a longer M6 bolt that runs through the adapter into the foot brake bracket, a 20mm M6 bolt that goes through the adapter into the top of the master cylinder, and the pin and cotter pin for the lever. Set aside two M8 by 30 bolts and four washers. Those are for mounting the finished assembly to the bike at the end, so keep them separate so you don't grab them by mistake.
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02
Attach the master cylinder to the foot brake bracket
Take the flat head M8 bolt and push it through the master cylinder. On the back side, stack two M8 washers on the bolt, then thread it into the foot brake bracket. Get it snug, not tight. You want the master cylinder to still pivot slightly so you can align it in the next steps.
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03
Run the long M6 bolt through the adapter into the bracket
Take the longer M6 bolt and start it through the 3D printed adapter. It can be stiff, so run it through with an Allen key first to cut the threads clean. Once the bolt is through the adapter, thread it into the top hole on the foot brake bracket. Snug only. Do not tighten yet.
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04
Install the 20mm M6 bolt through the adapter into the master cylinder
Take the 20mm M6 bolt and run it through the adapter into the top of the master cylinder. Get it snug. All three bolts holding the master and adapter should be snug but still allow the master cylinder to shift angle. You'll lock them down after alignment.
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05
Install the lever pin and cotter pin
Slide the pin through the lever and master cylinder clevis. Push the cotter pin through the back to lock it in place. This is the connection that drives the piston, and it needs to be in before you can check alignment.
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06
Align the piston straight and lock down the three bolts
This is the most important step in the whole install. Sight down the master cylinder along the piston. It needs to be perfectly straight in line. If the master is sitting at any angle, the piston will grind on the edge of the bore every time you pump the brake and blow the master. Trick to get it right: hold the bracket in one hand, grab the lever with the other, and push the lever away from you. That pushes the master into its true straight position. Hold it there and tighten the three bolts (the flat head M8 and both M6s). After they're tight, sight down the piston again to double check. If it feels crunchy when you work the lever, it's not straight and you need to loosen up and redo it.
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07
Mount the assembly to the bike with spacer washers
Grab the two M8 by 30 bolts and four washers you set aside. Run each M8 bolt through the foot brake mount, then stack two washers on the back side between the bracket and the frame mount before threading into the bike. Those washers space the assembly out so the master cylinder does not scrape the swing arm. Skip them and the master will rub. This is the same on Eride Pro, Talaria, and Ultra Bee. Tighten the mount bolts and the install is done.
Common Mistakes:
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Tightening the three master cylinder bolts before aligning the piston.
Keep all three bolts snug only until you've sighted down the piston and confirmed it's perfectly straight. Push the lever away from you to seat the master, then tighten.
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Skipping the two washers behind the M8 mount bolts.
Always stack two washers on the back side of each M8 by 30 mount bolt. Without that spacing, the master cylinder body will scrape the swing arm.
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Forcing the long M6 bolt through the 3D printed adapter dry.
Run the bolt through the adapter with an Allen key first to clear the threads. It'll be stiff on the first pass. Don't try to muscle it in while also threading into the bracket.
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Ignoring a crunchy feel at the lever after tightening.
That crunch is the piston grinding on the bore edge. Loosen the three master cylinder bolts, realign with the lever pushed away, and retighten. Better to redo it now than replace a blown master later.
FAQs
Will this kit fit my Talaria or Ultra Bee too?
Yes. The same YZ conversion kit and the same install process (including the two washers behind the mount bolts) works on the Talaria and Ultra Bee, not just the Eride Pro.
Why do I need the two washers behind the mount bolts?
They space the foot brake assembly away from the frame just enough so the master cylinder body doesn't scrape the swing arm. That's also why the kit ships with longer M8 bolts than stock. Skip the washers and you'll grind the master on the swing arm.
How do I know if the master cylinder is aligned correctly?
Sight straight down the piston. It should be perfectly in line with the bore. If you work the lever and it feels crunchy, it's not straight. Hold the bracket, push the lever away from you to seat the master in its true position, and tighten the three bolts with it held there.
What happens if I tighten the master cylinder bolts before aligning it?
The piston will ride against the edge of the master cylinder bore every time you hit the brake. That grinds the piston and blows the master. Always snug the three bolts first, align, then torque down.
Does this guide cover bleeding the brake?
No. This walkthrough covers the mechanical install of the foot brake bracket, master cylinder, and mounting to the bike. You'll need to bleed the system separately before riding.