Surron Sub Frame Seat Conversion Kit Install Guide | FactoryZ
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
This guide walks you through installing the FactoryZ Sub Frame Seat Conversion Kit on a Surron Light Bee. The kit swaps the stock Surron rear end for an Ultra Bee seat and fender on a powder-coated black subframe built to bolt into the Light Bee's factory mounting points. If you want the longer, flatter Ultra Bee seating position and cleaner rear-end look on your Light Bee without cutting or welding, this is the kit.
The install is bolt-on. You'll pull the stock subframe, seat, tail light, and under-seat plastics, then stretch the new subframe onto the factory frame, reinstall the plastics and battery lid latch, mount the pre-cut Ultra Bee fender with the supplied hardware, and finish by dropping the Ultra Bee seat onto the two rear seat bolts. The kit ships with the subframe, an OEM Ultra Bee seat, an OEM Ultra Bee fender (pre-cut to fit), and a small hardware pack with two bolts, four washers, and two nuts.
Plan on about half an hour if you have a second set of hands for the subframe bolts. A helper makes lining up the four stock threads a lot easier and helps you avoid stripping them. The tail light is not covered in the video. Most riders drill two holes in the new fender and reuse the stock tail light.
Tools Needed:
- 4mm Allen key
- 5mm Allen key
- 6mm Allen key
- 5mm Allen socket
- 6mm Allen socket
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- Small ratchet (short)
- Large ratchet
- Phillips screwdriver
- Pick tool or flathead screwdriver
- Automotive pry tool
- Propane torch (for Loctited stock subframe bolts)
- Grease
- Torque wrench
Install Steps:
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01
Remove the under-seat plastic rivets
There are eight plastic rivets holding the under-seat plastics on, three per side on the main panels plus one more on each side further back. Use a pick to sneak behind each rivet head and pop the center up, then pull the rest of the rivet out with the pick or an automotive pry tool. Set them aside, you'll reuse them.
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02
Unplug and remove the tail light
Unplug the tail light connector. Get behind the tail light mount with an 8mm socket and ratchet and loosen the two nuts. Slide the tail light off, then thread the nuts back on the studs so you don't lose them.
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03
Remove the stock seat
Use a 10mm socket to remove the two rear seat bolts and the two front seat bolts. To get the seat off, lift the front, hold the fender down, and slide the seat back and out.
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04
Open the battery lid and remove the under-seat plastics
Unlock the battery lid and flip it forward so it stays open. Remove the single Phillips screw that joins the two under-seat plastics together. Look under the bike and find the two M5 Allen bolts holding the plastics up. They're usually only fingertight from the factory. A short ratchet with a 5mm Allen socket makes reaching them easier. Cut the zip tie holding the wiring and pull the plastics off.
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05
Remove the battery lid latch
Use a 10mm socket to remove the battery lid latch assembly. Set the hardware aside, you'll put this back on the new subframe.
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06
Remove the stock subframe
The stock subframe bolts are M5 Allen. They're Loctited from the factory. If they don't break loose with normal pressure, hit each bolt head with a propane torch for 10 to 20 seconds to break the Loctite, then back them out. Do not force them if they feel locked, heat them first. Pull the subframe off the bike.
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07
Install the FactoryZ conversion subframe
The new subframe is a deliberate stretch fit onto the frame. Stretch it into position and start the top two bolts first, then work the bottom two in. A second set of hands here is a big help for lining everything up without cross-threading. You're threading into the stock frame threads, so go slow and don't strip them. Snug all four bolts, but leave final torque for after everything is dry fit.
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08
Reinstall the battery lid latch
Put the battery lid latch back on the new subframe. Spin the first bolt in by hand with a socket to start the thread, then start the second bolt. Once both are started, snug them down fully now, because you won't be able to reach them once the plastics go back on.
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09
Reinstall the under-seat plastics
Dry fit the two under-seat plastics back into their stock positions. They click together a specific way. Run the two M5 Allen bolts up through the bottom with the 5mm Allen socket and tighten them down. Put the Phillips screw back in where the two plastics meet. Reinstall the small 4mm bolts, one on each side.
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10
Mount the Ultra Bee fender
From the hardware kit, grab the two shorter bolts, four washers, and two nuts (the longer bolts are for the seat). For each side, stack bolt, washer, fender, washer, nut. Use a 4mm Allen key on the bolt and a 10mm socket on the nut. Snug it down but don't fully lock it yet. The fender has some slop, so slide it all the way forward and get it sitting straight before final tightening.
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11
Close the battery lid before setting the seat
Close and latch the battery lid now, before the seat goes on. You can technically flex the seat up to close the lid later, but you risk cracking the seat. Close it first.
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12
Prep the seat bolts and spacers
The Ultra Bee seat has captive nuts inside that are not secured, they float around. Handle the seat carefully so they don't shift out of position. Remove the two seat bolts from the seat. Dab a small amount of grease on the face of each spacer, this holds the spacer in place on the subframe while you line up the bolts.
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13
Install the seat
Slide the seat forward into position. There's a locating tab on the underside of the seat that has to drop into a hole up front, look from the back to confirm it seats correctly and the fender lines up. Set the seat down onto the subframe. Run one of the longer seat bolts up through the subframe into the seat nut. If the nut has shifted, shake the seat lightly to realign it. Once one side bites, tighten it down to help hold the seat while you start the second bolt. Repeat on the other side.
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14
Final torque and tail light
Go back and torque all the subframe and fender hardware to spec. The video does not cover the tail light on this build. If you're keeping the stock tail light, drill two holes in the new sub frame in the tail light location, bolt it up, and run the wires to it.
Common Mistakes:
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Forcing the stock subframe bolts out cold and stripping or snapping them.
They're Loctited from the factory. Apply heat with a propane torch for 10 to 20 seconds first, then remove.
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Stripping the stock frame threads when installing the new subframe.
The subframe is a stretch fit. Get a helper to hold it in alignment, start bolts by hand, and never force a bolt that isn't threading cleanly.
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Setting the seat on before closing the battery lid.
Close and latch the battery lid before the seat goes on. Flexing the seat up to close the lid later can crack the seat.
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Losing alignment of the Ultra Bee seat's captive nuts.
Handle the seat gently so the loose internal nuts don't shift. Dab grease on the spacer faces to hold them, and if a bolt won't bite, shake the seat lightly to realign the nut.
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Fully tightening the fender bolts before adjusting position.
The fender has slop in the mounting holes. Snug the hardware, slide the fender all the way forward and straight, then torque it down.
FAQs
How long does this install take?
About 30 minutes if the install goes smoothly. Having a second person to help hold the new subframe while you start the bolts speeds it up and helps you avoid cross-threading the stock frame threads.
Do I need to cut or modify anything?
No. The subframe bolts to the stock Light Bee mounting points, and the Ultra Bee fender ships pre-cut to fit. The only optional drilling is two holes in the fender if you want to reuse the stock tail light.
What's in the kit?
You get the powder-coated black subframe, an OEM Ultra Bee seat, a pre-cut OEM Ultra Bee fender, and a hardware pack with two bolts, four washers, and two nuts. The longer bolts are for the seat, the shorter ones are for the fender.
The stock subframe bolts won't budge. What do I do?
They're Loctited from the factory. Hit each bolt head with a propane torch for 10 to 20 seconds to break the Loctite, then back them out. Don't try to force them cold, you'll risk snapping a bolt or stripping the frame threads.
Why is the new subframe hard to line up?
The subframe is intentionally a stretch fit onto the frame. Start the top two bolts first, then wrestle the bottom two into position. A helper holding the subframe aligned while you thread bolts makes this much easier.
What about the tail light?
The video doesn't cover it because this build uses a different tail light. Most riders drill two holes in the new fender, bolt the stock tail light there, and run the factory wiring to it.