Surron Ultra Bee Foot Brake Kit Install Guide
Tools Needed:
- Socket set with deep well 12mm socket
- Wrench set
- Propane torch
- Allen keys
- Torque wrench
- Grease or lube for peg pin and axle
- Pliers or C clip tool
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
The FactoryZ foot brake kit turns your Surron Ultra Bee from a hand-brake-only setup into a true dirt bike feel with a dedicated rear foot brake. This guide walks you through installing the kit on a 2025 Ultra Bee, including swapping in the dual caliper bracket, mounting the foot brake assembly to your stock peg bracket, and getting the wheel and chain back on without a fight.
The kit ships with the foot brake assembly, a pre-bled master cylinder (YZ or HSK version) already run to the Ultra Bee caliper, a dual caliper bracket, and the hardware you need to reuse your stock caliper slider and pad spacer. If you picked the YZ master, there's a separate drilling step covered in its own video. This install assumes that step is already done.
This is for the rider who's comfortable pulling a rear wheel, running a torch on stubborn Loctite, and reusing factory hardware. Budget an afternoon, take your time getting the master cylinder and plunger perfectly in line, and you'll end up with a clean, reliable foot brake. Skip that alignment step and you'll blow the master inside 10 minutes of riding. Get it right the first time and you're golden.
DO NOT SKIP THIS:
Installing the kit with the plunger at an angle to the master cylinder.
Before bolting anything up, confirm the plunger enters the master dead straight. Angled contact rubs the master wall and blows the seal within minutes of riding.
Install Steps:
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01
Remove the rear wheel
Put a socket on the far side axle nut and break it loose, then pull the axle out. If it fights you, the axle could use some lube. Trick to save a headache later: instead of pulling the chain fully off the sprocket, set it on the inboard side of the swing arm so it's ready to drop back over the sprocket when the wheel goes back in.
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02
Pull the stock caliper and caliper bracket
Slide the caliper and bracket off the axle area. Take the bracket to the bench with a deep well 12mm socket and back out the caliper pole. If it's locked down tight from factory Loctite, hit the threads with a propane torch for 5 to 10 seconds, then break it loose with a wrench. Pull the brass pad spacer and the rubber caliper slider off. Toss the stock bracket.
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03
Build up the dual caliper bracket
Take the hardware you just pulled off the stock bracket and install it onto the new dual caliper bracket the same way it came off. One caliper pole per side, one rubber caliper slider per side, brass pad spacer into each location. Push the sliders in until they sit flush, not proud. Snug both poles down tight with a wrench.
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04
Mount both calipers to the dual bracket
Slide the original handbrake caliper onto the dual caliper bracket first. Then slide the foot brake caliper on. Before you mount the foot brake caliper, pull the white or black pad spacer out of it.
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05
Reinstall the rear wheel
Work the wheel back in by guiding the foot brake caliper over the rotor first. That naturally lines up the rear (handbrake) caliper to do the same. Slide the whole assembly back, run the axle through the dual bracket and the wheel, and get the chain tensioner bracket back on the other side. Thread the axle nut on.
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06
Put the chain back on the sprocket
Because you left the chain draped over the swing arm, it's already on the correct side. Lift it over the sprocket and spin the wheel backward to walk it on. It'll bind a bit near the end. Push through it and the chain seats. Torque the axle nut back down to spec.
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07
Remove the stock peg and peg bracket
On the right side, pop the C clip off the bottom of the peg pin, pull the pin out, and remove the peg. Then unbolt the stock peg bracket from the frame using the two factory bolts. Keep those bolts, you're reusing them.
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08
Bolt the foot brake to the frame
Line the foot brake mount up to the two factory peg bracket holes and thread in the two stock bolts (titanium hardware is optional). It takes a little muscle to get both holes to line up. Snug both bolts down.
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09
Hang the foot brake assembly on the bike
Route the foot brake assembly behind the rubber mud flap and let it dangle on that side of the bike for now. This keeps the master and line out of the way while you deal with the calipers and wheel.
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10
Reinstall the peg with fresh lube
Lube the peg pin before it goes back in, otherwise you'll get a squeak every time the peg flexes. Set the peg into the foot brake mount, then drop the peg pin in from the top down. Never install the pin from the bottom up. If the C clip comes off mid-ride, the peg is gone. Slide the washer on, then reinstall the C clip.
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11
Check master cylinder and plunger alignment
After Bolting up your Master Cylinder look at how the plunger meets the master cylinder on the foot brake assembly. When you push the lever, the plunger has to drive straight into the master. If it's sitting at an angle, it will rub the inside wall of the master cylinder and blow the seal in 5 to 10 minutes of riding. This applies to both the YZ and HSK master versions. Confirm it's dead straight now, before you install the kit.
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12
Check the master cylinder clevis nut
Last step, and don't skip it. The nut on the master cylinder (YZ or HSK) that retains the clevis to the plunger must be tight. If it backs off on the trail, that piece walks off and your foot brake stops working. Snug it down and confirm it's not going anywhere.
Common Mistakes:
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Forgetting to pull the pad spacer out of the foot brake caliper before mounting it.
The foot brake caliper ships with a white or black pad spacer inside. Take it out before you slide the caliper onto the dual bracket, otherwise the pads won't seat on the rotor.
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Installing the peg pin from the bottom up.
Always drop the peg pin in from the top down. If the C clip ever comes off mid-ride with the pin installed bottom-up, the peg falls out. Top down keeps the pin captive even if the clip fails.
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Leaving the master cylinder clevis nut loose.
The nut that retains the clevis to the plunger must be fully tight. If it backs off on the trail the linkage walks off and you lose the foot brake. Check it as your final step.
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Not seating the rubber caliper sliders flush on the dual bracket.
Press each slider in until it sits flush with the bracket, not proud. A slider sitting high will bind the caliper on the pole and hurt brake action.
FAQs
Does the foot brake kit come pre-bled?
Yes. The master cylinder (YZ or HSK version) ships pre-bled and already connected to the Ultra Bee caliper, so you don't need to bleed brakes during this install.
What's the difference between the YZ master and the HSK master?
Both are options in the kit. The YZ version requires some drilling to fit the foot brake assembly correctly. There's a separate walkthrough video for that drilling step. The HSK version does not require drilling.
Why does the plunger alignment matter so much?
If the plunger hits the master cylinder at an angle instead of perfectly straight, it rubs the inside wall of the master and blows the seal. It can happen inside 5 to 10 minutes of riding. Get it dialed in straight before you bolt anything to the bike.
Do I have to take the chain fully off to pull the rear wheel?
No. Set the chain on the inboard side of the swing arm when the wheel comes out. On reinstall, drop it over the sprocket and spin the wheel backward to seat it. Saves time and hassle.
The stock caliper pole won't budge. What do I do?
Factory Loctite is the cause. Hit the threads with a propane torch for 5 to 10 seconds, then put a wrench on it. It'll spin right loose.
Do I keep any of the stock hardware?
Yes. You reuse the caliper pole, brass pad spacer, and rubber caliper slider from the stock bracket, and you reuse the two factory peg bracket bolts to mount the foot brake.