Talaria XXX Rear Moto Brake Kit Install Guide | FactoryZ
Tools Needed:
- 8mm wrench
- 12mm wrench
- 3mm Allen key
- T25 Torx (if running titanium hardware)
- Torque wrench
- Impact driver (optional, for snugging only)
- Vise
- Heat source (heat gun or torch, for breaking factory Loctite)
- Blue Loctite
- Brake caliper grease
- Shop rags
- DOT brake fluid for top-off during bleed
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
This is the full install walkthrough for the FactoryZ Moto Brake Kit on a Talaria XXX. The kit upgrades your rear brake to the Sur-Ron Ultra Bee caliper and a larger rotor, which gives you real stopping power on a bike that deserves better than the stock setup. It's a solid upgrade if you're running more power, riding harder terrain, or just want a brake that actually hauls the bike down.
When you open the box you'll get a rotor, a caliper bracket (single or dual), the Talaria-specific spacer, and the Sur-Ron Ultra Bee brake assembly itself. The install is straightforward for anyone comfortable working on their own bike. You'll pull the rear wheel, swap the rotor, prep the caliper, run the pre-bled brake line through the frame, and bleed the system once at the end.
Expect to crack the seal on the pre-bled line. There's no clean way around it unless you want to pull the motor and controller, so plan on a quick bleed when you're done. The two steps that trip people up are getting the Talaria spacer between the swing arm and the caliper bracket, and running the brake line with the bend oriented correctly. Nail those and the rest is easy. Plan on an afternoon, take your time on the line routing, and you're set.
Install Steps:
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01
Unbox and check your kit
Lay out what came in the box: rotor, caliper bracket (single or dual depending on what you ordered), the Talaria spacer, and the Sur-Ron Ultra Bee brake assembly. Confirm you have all four before you start pulling the bike apart.
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02
Remove the shipping plastic from the caliper
There's a small plastic piece wedged in the caliper to keep the pistons from moving in shipping. If it pulls out easy, great. If it's stuck, grab an 8mm wrench and crack the bleeder valve open just enough to release pressure, slide the plastic out, then snug the bleeder back down. Tighten it good but don't gorilla it. Do this before any fluid drips out.
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03
Install the rotor on the wheel
Mount the rotor with the slots facing the direction the wheel spins (forward). There's a right way and a wrong way, so double check before you bolt it down. Put a drop of blue Loctite on each bolt. Snug them with an impact if you want, but do the final tighten by hand with an Allen key. Torque to 9 Nm. An impact can overtorque and snap these bolts, so don't rely on it for final spec.
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04
Strip the Ultra Bee bracket off the caliper
The caliper ships with a black bracket for the Ultra Bee that you don't need. Pull the little rubber piece and the brass piece out first. Clamp the bracket in a vise and hit it with a bit of heat to break the factory Loctite, then use a 12mm wrench to crack it loose. Toss the Ultra Bee bracket, you're done with it.
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05
Install the caliper onto the FactoryZ bracket
Take the small mounting piece you just removed and thread it into the FactoryZ caliper bracket with a dab of blue Loctite. Hand tight is fine here, no torque spec needed.
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06
Grease the slide pin and reassemble the caliper hardware
The caliper ships ungreased because it's not assembled. Put a small amount of grease on the slide pin, inside the pin hole, and a little on the rubber boot before sliding it in. Keep it minimal. Grease on your rotor or pads will ruin your day. Wipe off any excess, then slide the brass piece back on and set the caliper onto the bracket.
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07
Install the Talaria spacer (do not skip)
This is the step that makes or breaks the install. The Talaria-specific spacer goes between the swing arm and the caliper bracket. Without it, nothing lines up. Put the axle block on, run the axle through just enough to hold it, drop the spacer in position between the swing arm and bracket, then slide the caliper bracket on.
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08
Reinstall the rear wheel
Pull the axle back a hair so it's just barely holding everything. Lift the wheel up into the swing arm, line it up, and push the axle through. Snug the axle down once everything is seated.
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09
Open up the frame to run the brake line
You need to slide the front subframe (the one the controller mounts to) forward so you have room to fish the brake line through the bike. Remove the two front bolts on the plastics on each side (3mm Allen on stock bikes, T25 if you're running titanium hardware), plus the bolts holding the subframe in place. This gives you the clearance to run the line cleanly.
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10
Remove the banjo bolt at the caliper
You can break the seal at either end, but pull the banjo at the caliper instead of the master cylinder. Air bubbles follow gravity up. If you break it at the master, any air trapped in the line has to travel all the way down to the bleeder, which is a pain. Break it at the caliper and the bubbles purge right out the bleeder when you bleed. Expect some fluid to drip.
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11
Fish the brake line through the bike
Route the line over the middle of the motor and feed it through toward the rear. You should be able to see a clear path through where the jack shaft sits. Run the line through the swing arm and tuck it down into the plastic guide on top of the jack shaft (the same spot the stock line sits in). Make sure the line isn't rubbing on anything.
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12
Reconnect the banjo at the caliper
Check the bend in the line at the caliper. It needs to bend up, not down. If it's bending down, you've got it rotated wrong. The line is stiff, so you'll fight it a little to get the banjo started. Thread it in, line it up straight, and tighten it down.
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13
Secure the line along the frame
Go to the front of the bike and pull the line tight so there's no slack flopping around. There's a small retainer near the master cylinder area. Run the line inside that to hold it up in the corner and away from the tire.
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14
Mount the master cylinder
Snug the master cylinder to the bar for now. Turn the bars all the way to the right (full lock) to check that you have enough line routing clearance, then set your final lever angle and tighten the clamp.
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15
Reassemble the plastics and subframe
Put the subframe, plastics, and all the bolts you pulled earlier back in place.
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16
Bleed the brake
Orient the bike so the bleeder valve is the highest point on the braking system. Air follows gravity up and out. Crack the bleeder, pull the lever, close the bleeder, release the lever. Then pump the lever a couple times and repeat: open, pump, close, release. Keep going for a few minutes, topping off the reservoir as you go. You'll see bubbles come out every cycle, big ones at first and then smaller ones. When the lever feels firm and hits solid, you're close. First bleed doesn't need to be perfect. Ride it for a day or two, then bleed it one more time to knock out any air that settled into the caliper.
Common Mistakes:
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Skipping the Talaria spacer between the swing arm and caliper bracket
Drop the spacer in before you slide the caliper bracket on. Nothing will align without it.
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Installing the rotor backwards
The directional slots need to face the direction of wheel rotation (forward). Check before you torque the bolts.
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Using an impact to fully torque the rotor bolts
Snug them with the impact if you want, then finish by hand with an Allen key to 9 Nm. Impacts overtorque these and snap them off.
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Installing the brake line at the caliper with the bend facing down
The bend at the banjo needs to curve up, not down. If it's wrong, back the bolt out, rotate the fitting, and retighten.
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Getting grease on the rotor or pads
Use a small amount on the slide pin only. If any gets on the rotor or pads, clean them with brake cleaner before riding or they'll glaze and lose stopping power.
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Breaking the seal at the master cylinder instead of the caliper
Always crack the banjo at the caliper. Bubbles rise with gravity, and bleeding from the bottom fitting is way easier than chasing air through the whole line.
FAQs
Do I have to break the seal on the pre-bled line?
Basically yes. The only way to avoid breaking the seal is to pull the motor and controller out of the bike to get the line through, which isn't worth it. Plan on cracking the banjo at the caliper and doing a quick bleed at the end. It only takes a few minutes.
What do I torque the rotor bolts to?
9 Nm. Use blue Loctite on the threads and do the final tighten by hand with an Allen key. Don't rely on an impact for final torque, it can overtighten and snap the bolts.
Which end of the line should I disconnect to route it through the bike?
Pull the banjo at the caliper, not at the master cylinder. Air bubbles rise with gravity, so bleeding from the caliper end is much easier. If you break it at the master, trapped air has to travel the full length of the line to get to the bleeder.
Do I really need the Talaria spacer?
Yes. The spacer goes between the swing arm and the caliper bracket. Without it, the caliper won't align with the rotor. It's the single most important part of the install for Talaria fitment.
Which way should the rotor face?
Install it so the directional slots face forward, matching the direction the wheel spins.
Is one bleed enough?
For now, yes. Get it to a solid lever, ride it for a day or two, then bleed it one more time. Some air will work its way into the caliper as you ride, and the second bleed cleans it up.