Talaria XXX Front Moto Brake Kit Install Guide
Tools Needed:
- Allen keys
- M12 wrench
- Torque wrench (Nm)
- Impact driver
- Blue Loctite
- Heat source (heat gun or small torch)
- Axle wrench for front axle nut
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
This guide walks you through installing the Ultra Bee big brake kit on the front of a Talaria XXX. It's the same moto brake setup that gives you a thicker 3.5mm rotor, a proper caliper on a new bracket, fresh wheel spacers, and a master cylinder to replace the stock front brake. If you've already felt the stock front brake fade on fast descents or hard moto stops, this kit is the upgrade that fixes it.
This is a home-garage install. You don't need a lift or special pullers, just hand tools, a torque wrench, and some blue Loctite. The front wheel needs to come off, so plan on propping the bike securely before you start. The transcript walks through it on a Talaria XXX specifically, but the same kit goes on Sur-Ron and other Talaria models with small routing differences at the master cylinder.
What you get out of it: a thicker front rotor, a stronger caliper, and a real moto-style master cylinder. The installer in the video calls it the best brakes money can buy for a Talaria. Expect better bite, more consistent feel, and less fade. Budget about an hour if you're comfortable pulling a wheel, a bit more if this is your first brake swap. Shop the kit here: /collections/moto-brake-kits-surron-talaria-ultra-bee-e-ride-pro.
Install Steps:
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01
Remove the front wheel and stock rotor
With the front wheel already off the bike, remove the stock rotor bolts. Back them off loose with an impact if you want, but don't fully send them tight with the impact later. Set the stock rotor aside.
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02
Mount the new rotor in the correct orientation
Orientation matters. The rotor has a correct side facing out, so match it to how the installer shows in the video before you start threading bolts. Put a small dab of blue Loctite on each rotor bolt (a tiny bit is plenty), then hand-thread them all in loose first. Titanium hardware is optional, not required.
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03
Torque the rotor bolts
Snug the rotor bolts down, then torque to spec. For M5 titanium bolts the spec used in the video is 6.9 Nm (he went to 7 Nm). Star or triangle pattern both work on a thick 3.5mm rotor like this, so don't overthink the pattern, just get them even.
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04
Swap the pin, rubber, and metal piece onto the new caliper bracket
The caliper ships on the stock-style bracket. You need to move three parts over to the new bracket: the pin (pole), the rubber piece, and the small metal piece. The pin has factory Loctite on it. If it's stuck, hit it with a little heat and break it loose with an M12 wrench, then transfer it to the new bracket along with the rubber and metal piece.
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05
Install the new caliper bracket on the bike
Put a small amount of blue Loctite on the threads of the two caliper bracket bolts. Loosely fit the bracket to the bike, then torque both bolts to 10 Nm.
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06
Slide the caliper onto the bracket
Slide the caliper onto the bracket and push it home. You should hear it click onto both rubber pieces. When you hear both clicks, it's seated correctly.
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07
Install the new wheel spacers
The kit comes with two wheel spacers, one longer and one shorter. The shorter spacer goes on the side of the wheel with no rotor. The longer spacer goes on the rotor side. Get them on before you try to fit the wheel back in.
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08
Reinstall the front wheel and axle
The wheel sits a touch wider than stock with the new spacers, so you'll need to squeeze it into the forks. Line it up, slide the axle through, get the far side to line up, then push the axle all the way through. Thread the axle nut on and tighten.
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09
Mount the master cylinder and route the line
Mount the new master cylinder to the handlebar. Route the brake line to the caliper in whatever path works cleanly for your bike. Routing will differ slightly between a Talaria XXX, other Talarias, and a Sur-Ron, so use what fits your cockpit. You can always re-route later if you find a cleaner path.
Common Mistakes:
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Installing the rotor backwards.
The rotor has a correct orientation. Check the direction before you torque anything down. If it's on wrong, back the bolts out and flip it.
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Putting the wheel spacers on the wrong sides.
Longer spacer goes on the rotor side. Shorter spacer goes on the non-rotor side. Getting this backwards will throw off caliper alignment.
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Forcing the pin off the stock bracket cold and stripping it.
It's held with factory Loctite. Warm it up with a little heat first, then use an M12 wrench to break it loose.
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Torquing rotor bolts with an impact driver.
Use an impact to spin them in loose, then finish with a torque wrench to spec (6.9 to 7 Nm for M5 titanium). Impacting them tight will over-torque and risk snapping the bolt.
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Skipping Loctite on the rotor, bracket, and caliper bolts.
A small dab of blue Loctite on the threads keeps them from backing out under brake heat and vibration. You don't need much.
FAQs
Does this kit fit a Sur-Ron or other Talaria models, or just the Talaria XXX?
The install in the video is on a Talaria XXX, but the same kit goes on Sur-Ron and other Talarias. The main difference is brake line routing at the master cylinder, which you'll adjust to fit your cockpit.
What torque should I use on the rotor bolts?
The video uses 6.9 Nm for M5 titanium bolts and rounds up to 7 Nm. If you're using different hardware, follow the spec for your specific bolts.
What torque for the caliper bracket bolts?
10 Nm, with a small amount of blue Loctite on the threads.
Do I need titanium hardware?
No. The installer used titanium bolts as a build choice. Stock-style steel hardware is fine.
Why are there two different length wheel spacers?
The kit comes with one longer and one shorter spacer. The longer one goes on the rotor side, the shorter one goes on the non-rotor side. The wheel will sit slightly wider than stock, so you'll need to squeeze it into the forks during install.
The pin on the stock caliper bracket won't come out. What do I do?
It has factory Loctite on it. Apply a little heat, then break it loose with an M12 wrench. It'll come right off.