Surron Light Bee Seat Install Guide | FactoryZ
Tools Needed:
- Pick tool with a hook tip
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
Swapping the seat on a Surron Light Bee is one of the easier jobs on the bike. If you cracked your stock seat in a crash, or you just want a fresh cover and a better shape under you, this is a 30 minute driveway install with basic hand tools. This guide walks through pulling the underseat plastic, removing the stock seat, and bolting the new FactoryZ seat back on. It also covers the rear fender at the same time, since the rear seat hardware shares mounting points with the fender and most riders end up doing both together.
This is written for the home mechanic doing the work themselves. No special tools, no wiring, no disassembly beyond the rear plastics. The only parts that trip people up are the plastic push rivets holding the underseat panel on. Take your time with those and they stay reusable.
If you're running a carbon rear fender from FactoryZ, you'll have a choice between the long and the short version. Long gives you more coverage in mud. Short cleans up the back end. Both install the same way. When you're done, you've got a fresh seat, a clean fender, and a bike that doesn't look beat up anymore.
Install Steps:
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01
Pry out the underseat plastic rivets
Grab a pick tool, ideally one with a hook on the end. Slip it behind the center pin of each plastic rivet and lift the pin out first. Once the pin is out, pull the outer sleeve. There are three rivets along the outside of the underseat plastic and one on each inner side (five total). Note: some bikes ship without the two inner rivets installed. Work slowly. If you push the pin through the hole instead of lifting it out, you can damage the rivet.
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02
Drop the underseat plastic
With all the rivets out, the underseat plastic pulls straight down off the bike and out of the way. This gives you access to the seat mounting nuts.
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03
Remove the two rear 10mm nuts
Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to back off the two rear nuts holding the seat and fender. Keep track of the washer on each one. Don't let them drop into the frame.
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04
Pull the rear fender
Tilt the rear fender down and push it forward. It pops right off the mounting tabs. Set it aside.
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05
Remove the two front 10mm nuts
Up at the front of the seat there are two more 10mm nuts with washers. The angle is tight, but a socket and ratchet will get them off. Remove both nuts and washers. The stock seat lifts right off.
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06
Set the new FactoryZ seat in place
Drop the new seat down onto the studs. Make sure it seats flat against the frame and the front studs come through the mounting holes.
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07
Install the front nuts first
Put a washer and nut on each of the two front studs and snug them down. Doing the fronts first holds the seat in position while you work the rear.
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08
Install the rear fender
Slide the new carbon rear fender (long or short, your choice) onto its mounting points and pull it rearward until it clicks in on both sides. You'll feel and hear it seat.
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09
Install the rear nuts
Put a washer and nut on each of the two rear studs. These hold both the seat and the rear fender. Tighten them down to factory spec.
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10
Reinstall the underseat plastic
Line the underseat plastic back up to the frame and start the plastic rivets. Push the outer sleeve into the hole first, then press the center pin in to lock it. Start with the rearmost rivet on one side, then the front, then the middle. Repeat on the other side. Once the first side is aligned, the second side lines up easily.
Common Mistakes:
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Pushing the plastic rivet pin all the way through instead of prying it out
Use a hook-style pick and catch the pin from the underside of the hole so you can lift it out. If you shove it through, you risk losing or damaging the rivet.
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Losing the washers when you back off the 10mm nuts
Keep a hand or a magnet under each nut as it comes loose. You need both washers when you reinstall the seat.
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Yanking the rear fender straight up
Tilt it down and push forward to release the tabs. On reinstall, slide it in and pull back until you feel it click into both locating points.
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Prying the rivet with too big or too blunt a pick
Switch to a finer, hooked pick. You want to slip behind the center pin cleanly so the rivet stays reusable.
FAQs
Do I need to remove the rear fender to swap the seat?
You don't have to, but you have to pop the underseat plastic off to reach all four 10mm nuts. Since the fender is right there and held on by the same rear nuts, most people pull it at the same time.
How many plastic rivets hold the underseat plastic on?
Five total. Three along the outside and one on each inner side. Some bikes ship missing the two inner rivets from the factory.
Are the plastic rivets reusable?
Usually yes, if you pry them out carefully with a pick. If you push the center pin through the hole instead of lifting it out, you can damage them.
Long carbon rear fender or short?
Rider preference. The long fender gives more coverage in mud and wet conditions. The short one is cleaner looking for dry riding.
What size are the seat nuts?
10mm. There are two at the rear and two at the front, four total, each with a washer.