Install Eride Pro SS SR Moto Brake Kit | FactoryZ
Tools Needed:
- Torch
- 6mm Allen key
- 5mm Allen key
- 4mm Allen key
- 3mm Allen key
- 13mm wrench
- 17mm socket
- T30 Torx
- Deep-well socket or wrench (for slider bolt)
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Impact driver
- Torque wrench
- Blue Loctite
- Brake slider grease
- Side cutters (for zip ties)
- Support box (to rest the motor on)
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
Swapping the stock brakes on your Eride Pro SS 3.0 or SR for the SR Moto Brake kit is one of the bigger upgrades you can do to the bike. The stock setup works, but the Moto Brake kit gives you a proper rotor, a dual caliper bracket, and a real master cylinder with a better feel at the lever. This guide walks through the full install: transferring hardware onto the new caliper bracket, pulling the rear wheel, dropping the motor and battery tray so you can route the brake line the factory way, swapping in the new master cylinder while keeping your stock brake sensor, and finishing up with the new rotor and caliper.
This is a home-shop job if you're comfortable pulling a wheel and dropping a motor. There's no bleeding involved if the assembly comes pre-bled, but you will need to reposition the banjo fitting so air bubbles travel up the line into the master instead of getting trapped. Plan on a few hours, take your time with the battery tray bolts (they're buried inside the frame), and work in the reverse order of disassembly when you put everything back together. At the end you get stronger, more consistent braking and a much better lever feel.
Install Steps:
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01
Transfer hardware to the Moto Brake caliper bracket
Open the kit and confirm you have the rotor, dual (or single) caliper bracket, and rear brake assembly. Pull the pad spacer out of the stock Ultra Bee bracket, then slide the bracket off the caliper. The slider bolt is held with Loctite, so hit it with a torch for about 10 seconds, then use a wrench or deep-well socket to break it loose. Pop off the rubber slider and the brass pad spacer. Move everything onto the new Moto Brake dual caliper bracket. Put a tiny bit of blue Loctite on the slider bolt threads and snug it with a wrench (not an impact). Reinstall the pad spacer: slide it all the way to the top, then back down just a hair so the rotor won't tap it and cause a squeak. Push the rubber slider back on.
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02
Remove the rear wheel
Use a 6mm Allen on one side and a 17mm socket on the other to back off the axle nut. Lightly tap the axle out, then use the Allen key to push it all the way through. Pull the wheel and slide the axle out. Trick: sneak the chain off the sprocket and drape it over the swing arm. That makes reinstall much easier later.
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03
Strip plastics, bash guard, and motor mount hardware
Pull the small plastic bits so you can feed the new brake line through the frame without cutting anything. The loose plastic piece slides right out. Remove the bash guard bolt and the bolt holding the tray with a 5mm Allen (the tray bolt needs a 13mm wrench on the nut behind it). Remove the top motor mount bolt with a 6mm Allen and loosen the lower one. Pop off the jack shaft cover with a 4mm Allen (there's a hidden second bolt). Repeat on the other side. At the front, drop the bash guard down and cut the zip tie holding the kickstand sensor wire so you don't tear it.
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04
Drop the motor to relieve belt tension
Stand over the bike and lift the motor up to relieve belt tension, then slide the belt off. Let the motor tilt forward. Set a box under the motor to support it. Fully remove the motor mount bolts on both sides so the motor sits on the box out of the way.
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05
Remove the tipover sensor and battery tray
From under the battery tray, remove the two Phillips head screws holding the tipover sensor and set it aside. Then find the two bolts that hold the battery tray in (one on the pulley/belt side, one on the 12V converter side). They sit on the inside of the frame and are a pain to reach, which is why you had to pull the motor. Remove both and lift the battery tray out. The stock brake line runs under this tray, which is why the full teardown is needed to route the new line correctly.
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06
Remove the stock front brake
Cut the zip tie along the line and remove the 3mm Allen bolt on top of the controller that secures the stock brake line. Clip any remaining zip ties and pull the two bolts holding the stock master cylinder to the bar. The full stock brake system now comes out.
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07
Transfer the stock brake sensor to the Moto Brake master
Pull the brake sensor off the stock master cylinder. Pop the sensor that comes preinstalled on the Moto Brake (Ultra Bee) master off and discard or set aside. Pull the lever in slightly so you can get the little button on the bottom side of the new master to depress, drop the stock sensor in, and tighten it down. You've now kept your factory brake sensor wiring.
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08
Feed the new brake line through the triple clamp
Loosen the two pinch bolts on the triple clamp and the one on top, then drop the stanchion down to open a gap. Slide the new brake line through that gap. Push the stanchion back up, making sure the left and right sides match in height. Torque all three triple clamp bolts to 12 Nm.
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09
Mount the Moto Brake master cylinder
Set the Moto Brake master cylinder on the bar and snug it finger tight for now. You'll set the final lever angle after the bike is back together and you can sit on it.
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10
Route the brake line through the frame
Run the line up through the frame and back out the side where the stock line came out, matching the factory routing. It should sit under where the battery tray goes, come out next to the jack shaft cover, and be retained by the stock clip. Keep it in place as you reassemble so it doesn't get pinched.
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11
Rotate the banjo fitting so air bubbles travel to the master
Check the banjo fitting at the caliper end. If it's pointing up, air bubbles will trap inside it. Loosen the nut just barely (you don't want to break the pressure seal) and rotate it so it faces down. That way any air works its way up the line into the master where it belongs.
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12
Reassemble the bike
Work backward through the teardown. Bolt the battery tray back in, reinstall the tipover sensor, set the motor back on its mounts and torque them down, slip the belt back onto the pulley, reinstall the jack shaft covers, motor mount bolts, tray bolt, and bash guard. Keep the brake line routed where you laid it out.
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13
Install the Moto Brake rotor
Remove the stock rotor bolts with a T30 Torx. Set the Moto Brake rotor on the hub, put a small dab of blue Loctite on each bolt, snug them with an impact, then torque to 10 Nm.
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14
Grease the caliper slider and join the caliper to the bracket
Put a thin layer of grease on the slider pole on the bracket, and about the same amount on the matching pole on the caliper itself. Don't cake it on. Slide the caliper and bracket together.
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15
Reinstall the rear wheel
Grease the axle. Set the wheel up on the seat, then bring the dual caliper bracket over. Slide the caliper over the rotor and click the bracket onto the wheel spacer, then drop the wheel into the swing arm. Grab the chain you left draped on the swing arm, lay it over the sprocket, and spin the wheel to walk it on. Slide the axle through, install the washer and axle nut, and tighten it down.
Common Mistakes:
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Leaving the banjo fitting pointed up out of the box
Loosen the banjo nut barely enough to rotate the fitting, aim it downward, and retighten. This lets air bubbles escape up into the master instead of getting trapped at the caliper.
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Pad spacer slid too far down, causing an instant squeak
Slide the brass pad spacer all the way to the top of its slot, then back down just a hair. The rotor shouldn't be tapping it.
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Using an impact on the caliper slider bolt
The slider bolt has Loctite on it from the factory and needs to come off with heat (about 10 seconds with a torch) and a wrench or deep-well socket. Reinstall it with a wrench and a small amount of blue Loctite, not an impact.
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Routing the brake line without pulling the battery tray
The factory routing runs the line under the battery tray. Pull the motor and battery tray so you can feed the new line the same way, otherwise you'll have it flopping along the outside of the frame.
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Forgetting to drape the chain on the swing arm before pulling the wheel
Before you slide the axle out, sneak the chain off the sprocket and lay it over the swing arm. When the wheel goes back in, lay the chain over the sprocket and spin the wheel to walk it on.
FAQs
Does this kit fit both the Eride Pro SS 3.0 and the SR?
Yes. The same Moto Brake kit fits both the 3.0 and the SR. Most FactoryZ Moto Brake kits share the same caliper and master, with the rotor changing depending on the bike.
Do I have to pull the motor and battery tray?
If you want the brake line routed the factory way (under the battery tray and out next to the jack shaft cover), yes. You can route it externally along the frame instead, but the correct routing requires dropping the motor and pulling the battery tray.
Will I keep my stock brake sensor and kill switch wiring?
Yes. Pull the sensor off the stock master, remove the sensor that ships on the Moto Brake master, and install the stock one in its place. Pull the lever slightly so the button on the bottom side depresses, drop it in, and tighten.
What torque specs does this install call for?
The transcript specifies 12 Nm for the triple clamp pinch bolts after feeding the brake line, and 10 Nm for the rotor bolts (with a small dab of blue Loctite). Other fasteners should go back to factory spec.
My new brake squeaks right away. What happened?
The pad spacer on the caliper bracket probably slid down too far and the rotor is tapping it. Slide the spacer all the way up, then back down just a hair, and that should clear it.
Why does the banjo fitting need to face down?
If it's pointing up, air bubbles get trapped inside it and you'll have a spongy lever. Facing down, any trapped air travels up the line into the master cylinder where it belongs. Loosen the nut just enough to rotate it without breaking the pressure seal.