Eride Pro SS / SR Moto Foot Brake Install Guide
Tools Needed:
- 17mm socket
- 6mm Allen key
- Needle-nose pliers
- Grease
- Loctite (threadlocker)
- Torque wrench
- Bike stand
Read This Before Starting Your Install:
Adding a rear foot brake to your Eride Pro SS 3.0 or SR gives you real moto-style control. You get a dual caliper setup (factory hand brake stays, new foot-operated caliper gets added), a proper foot brake lever with peg, and either a YZ or HSK master cylinder feeding the new caliper. This kit is for riders who want to brake like they do on a dirt bike, front with the hand, rear with the foot, instead of running both brakes off the bars.
This guide walks through the full install on the bike: pulling the rear wheel, assembling the dual caliper bracket, greasing the slider pin, reinstalling the wheel and chain, swapping the stock peg bracket for the FactoryZ foot brake bracket, mounting the master cylinder, and dialing in the plunger angle so the brake works the way it was designed to.
It's a straightforward job if you've done basic wrenching on your Eride before. The hardest part is lining both calipers up over the rotor while you slide the axle back in. Everything else is bolt-on. The M8 hole in the FactoryZ bracket means you don't have to drill anything or fish a nut onto the back side for the YZ master mount. Plan on an afternoon, take your time on the master cylinder angle, and you're done.
Install Steps:
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01
Remove the rear wheel
Get the bike up on a stand. Use a 17mm socket and a 6mm Allen to break loose the axle hardware and pull the stock dual caliper bracket area apart. Don't lose the little washer on the axle. Slip the chain up and over the swing arm, then slide the rear wheel out.
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02
Build the dual caliper bracket
On the bench, take the small caliper slider pin, add a tiny bit of Loctite to the threads, and thread it into the dual caliper bracket finger tight. Then wrench it down tight. Slide the rubber slider boot on, then install the brass caliper spacer.
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03
Grease the slider pin and caliper bore
Before the caliper touches the pin, put a small amount of grease on the slider pin itself, and grease the matching bore on the caliper. This lets the caliper float freely the way it's designed to.
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04
Mount the calipers to the bracket
Back at the bike, feed the new master cylinder line through, then slide the new foot brake caliper onto the dual caliper bracket. Pull the little pad spacer out of the caliper before it goes over the rotor. Reinstall the factory hand brake caliper on the bracket as well.
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05
Reinstall the rear wheel
This is the trickiest part of the whole install. Slide the wheel into the swing arm and work both calipers over the rotor at the same time. The wheel spacer will click into the dual caliper bracket when it's seated. Slide the axle through, drop the washer back on, and thread the axle nut.
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06
Put the chain back on
Before fully torquing the axle, loop the chain over the top of the sprocket and rotate the wheel until it binds, then walk it onto the sprocket. Once the chain is seated, tighten the axle down.
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07
Remove the stock peg bracket
Use a 6mm Allen to remove the two bolts on the factory peg bracket. It'll feel stuck because of a small support bar behind it. Twist the support bar and it'll thread out. Remove the support bar completely.
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08
Install the FactoryZ foot brake bracket
Pay attention here. Put the top bolt through the foot brake bracket with two washers, start it in the frame hole. Put the bottom bolt through with two washers as well. Once both are started, tighten them down fully.
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09
Attach the peg to the foot brake lever
Before the master cylinder goes on, bolt the peg to the foot brake lever using the two peg bolts. Tighten them down.
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10
Mount the master cylinder to the bracket
Take the shorter flat-head bolt and run it through the plastic adapter piece into the master cylinder mount. Leave it close to snug, not tight, so the master can still pivot. Run the longer bolt through the other hole and into the top of the foot brake bracket.
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11
Secure the master with the M8 bolt
Use the last M8 bolt in the kit with two washers. The FactoryZ foot brake bracket has both an M6 and an M8 hole so you don't need to drill or run a nut on the back side for the YZ master. Line up the hole, thread the bolt in, and snug it (not fully tight yet).
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12
Connect the foot lever to the master with the clevis pin
Slide the pin through the master cylinder clevis, drop the cotter pin through the hole on the other side, and bend both legs of the cotter pin in opposite directions so it can't back out.
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13
Set the master cylinder plunger angle
This is the most important adjustment on the whole setup. Loosen the master mount bolts enough to rotate the master, and position it so the plunger is perfectly straight up and down in line with the master cylinder body. Once it's square, tighten the master cylinder mounting bolts down firmly.
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14
Install the peg and return spring
Bolt the foot peg onto the bracket and tighten it. For the return spring, hook the top end on first, then use needle-nose pliers to stretch the bottom end onto its mount. Tidy up any cable routing and you're done.
Common Mistakes:
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Losing the axle washer when pulling the rear wheel
Watch for the small washer as the axle comes out and set it aside with the axle nut so it goes back on during reinstall.
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Forgetting to pull the pad spacer out of the new caliper
Before you try to slide the caliper over the rotor, remove the plastic or cardboard pad spacer from between the pads. Otherwise the caliper won't fit over the disc.
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Skipping grease on the caliper slider pin
Grease the slider pin and the caliper bore before assembly. A dry floating caliper will drag or bind and kill your brake feel.
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Tightening the master cylinder mount before setting the plunger angle
Leave the master mount bolts snug but not tight, rotate the master until the plunger is perfectly vertical in line with the master body, then torque the bolts down.
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Not bending the cotter pin legs at the clevis
After the cotter pin is through, bend the two legs in different directions so it locks in place and can't back out under braking.
FAQs
Does this kit work with both the YZ and HSK master cylinders?
Yes. The kit ships with hardware for both. If you got the YZ master, you'll see the full hardware set including the M8 mount bolt. If you got the HSK, you'll only get the HSK-specific hardware for the bracket.
Do I have to drill the foot brake bracket to fit the YZ master?
No. The FactoryZ foot brake bracket has both an M6 and an M8 hole built in. The M8 hole lets the YZ master bolt up directly with two washers, so you don't need to drill or put a nut on the back side.
What's the hardest part of this install?
Getting the rear wheel back in while both calipers line up over the rotor. Slide the wheel in, work both calipers over the disc, and listen for the wheel spacer to click into the dual caliper bracket before you push the axle through.
Why does the master cylinder angle matter so much?
The plunger that the foot lever pushes needs to be perfectly straight up and down relative to the master cylinder body. If it's angled, you lose travel and the brake won't feel right. Set the angle before you fully tighten the master cylinder mount bolts.
Do I need to grease anything during the build?
Yes. Put a small amount of grease on the caliper slider pin and inside the matching bore on the caliper before assembly. The floating caliper needs to slide freely to work correctly.
What holds the clevis pin in place at the foot lever?
A cotter pin through the hole on the back side of the clevis pin. After you push it through, bend the two legs of the cotter pin in opposite directions so it can't vibrate out.